Brushes & Combs, Oh My: What Each Brush Does and How to Use it

What Each Brush Does (and How Not to Accidentally Annoy or Injure Your Dog)

Let’s be honest: brushing your dog can feel a little overwhelming, especially when there are approximately one million brushes to choose from. But picking the right one can make all the difference—not just for your dog’s coat, but for their comfort (and your sanity).

Why the Right Brush Matters

Using the right brush makes grooming easier for both you and your furry friend. The wrong one? That’s a shortcut to Tangle Town—population: frustrated pup and stressed-out human. It can lead to matting, skin irritation, or even bald spots. (Yes, bald spots. No one wants a reverse mohawk situation.)

General Tips Before You Brush

1. Blow First, Brush Later: When in doubt, bust out the dryer. A quick blow-dry—handheld (like the one in your bathroom cabinet) or velocity (the big ones we have in the salon)—can help you spot tangles that are hiding like little hairy ninjas.

• Step 1: Blow dry all over.

• Step 2: You should be able to see skin, and the hair should be moving freely like grass in the wind.

• Step 3: Any clumps that stick together like a high school clique? That’s a mat. Time to handle it.

2. Don’t Overdo It: Brushing too much (or too hard) can be just as bad as not brushing at all. Short, regular sessions are better for everyone. Your dog—and your wrists—will thank you.

3. Have a System: Work in lines from the bottom up, like you're mowing a tiny, furry lawn. It’s oddly satisfying.

4. Mix It Up: Some dogs need a combo approach. A brush for the body, another for legs or cheeks (I'm looking at you, double coated dogs). It’s like picking different shoes for hiking and dancing—both important, just not interchangeable.

Meet the Brushes & Combs

Slicker Brush

Great for removing tangles, mats, and loose hair from medium to long coats.

Do:

• Test it on your own forearm before using it on your dog. If it feels scratchy or painful, it's too harsh.

• Listen for a "crunchy toast" or “Rice Krispies” sound—it means you’ve hit a tangle.

Don’t:

• Stay in one spot too long—it can cause brush burn.

• Use it on medium-large mats—grab a dematting comb instead.

 How to Use It:

• Use short, gentle strokes and brush in layers ("line brushing")—start at the bottom of the coat and work your way up.

• Hold the hair aside with one hand and brush small sections at a time.

• Make sure to get into those high friction spots (inner legs, belly, face, cheeks and ears).

Greyhound Comb

Great for detecting tangles, knots, mats, and leftover shed in all coat types—especially useful as a "final check" tool.

Dos:

• Use it as a tangle detector—it’ll catch what other brushes might miss.

• Comb through after brushing to check your work.

• Use both the wide and fine-tooth sides depending on your dog’s coat density.

Don’ts:

• Don’t use it to actually detangle—it’s not built for that and can pull on the skin.

• Don’t yank if it snags. Pause, treat the tangle with a proper tool, then try again.

How to Use It:

• After brushing with your main brush (like a slicker or pin brush), gently run the greyhound comb through the coat.

• Move slowly and in the direction of hair growth.

• If the comb catches or snags, that’s your signal that a knot or mat is still hanging out.

• Go back in with your detangling tool (slicker or dematting comb) to address the trouble spot, then re-check with the comb.

Pin Brush

Great for long, fine, or silky coats (like Yorkies, Maltese, and Afghan Hounds), and gentle daily maintenance.

Dos:

• Use it for daily or regular brushing on dogs with long or feathered coats.

• Incorporate it into bonding time—it’s gentle and relaxing for your dog.

• Choose a pin brush with rounded or rubber-coated tips to protect the skin.

• Use it to fluff and neaten up after more intense brushing or dematting.

Don’ts:

• Don’t use it to remove tangles or mats—it’s not strong enough and can skip over problem spots.

• Don’t press too hard. It’s not meant to dig deep.

• Don’t assume it’s a "one-brush-fits-all" solution. It’s more of a finishing tool.

How to Use It:

• Use light, sweeping strokes in the direction of coat growth.

• Focus on longer or flowing areas—like ears, tails, and pantaloons.

• Use after detangling or slicker brushing to smooth and shape the coat.

• Ideal for show coats or dogs with fine, flyaway hair that needs a polished look.

Dematting Comb (Use With Caution)

Great for medium to large-sized mats that are too stubborn for a slicker brush but don’t require full shaving. Best used sparingly and with care.

Dos:

• Know what you're holding: this tool has exposed, very sharp blades.

• Hold the base of the mat with your fingers to reduce pulling on the skin.

• Use for isolated mats—not for general brushing.

• Always work slowly and gently—think surgical precision, not yard work.

Don’ts:

• Don’t use on large areas of matting—it can cause brush burn or hair damage.

• Avoid using aggressively or in a rush; it’s easy to cause injury to both you and your pup.

• Don’t forget to maintain a regular brushing routine—this tool should be your backup plan, not your go-to.

How to Use It:

• Carefully insert the comb prongs between your fingers and the mat, keeping the blades pointed away from your dog’s skin.

• Gently roll or pull the comb outward and downward, working in short motions.

• If the mat doesn’t fully come out on the first try, stop and repeat rather than forcing it.

• Clean out hair from the blades frequently to keep it working smoothly and safely.

  
  

Undercoat Rake (Curved Teeth)

Great for removing dead undercoat from short to medium-length double-coated dogs (like Corgis, Labs, German Shepherds, and Shiba Inus). Ideal for thick, seasonal shedders.

Dos:

• Use on clean, dry coats for best results.

• Use short strokes to target impacted undercoat without damaging the topcoat.

• Check for "coat pull-back"—if the coat resists slightly, there’s more undercoat to remove.

• Use as part of a deshedding routine during seasonal shedding periods.

Don’ts:

• Don’t use long, sweeping strokes—this can snap healthy guard hairs and damage the coat.

• Don’t keep brushing just because you're still getting hair. That hair might be attached!

• Don’t use on long-coated breeds like Newfoundlands or Great Pyrenees—this tool can break their delicate outer coats.

How to Use It:

• Hold the rake at a slight angle and gently pull it through the coat in the direction of hair growth.

• Work in small sections and check frequently for tug-back.

• If the tool glides freely with no resistance, that area is done—move on.

• Always be gentle; you're thinning dead hair, not plowing a field!

Undercoat Rake (Pronged Teeth)

Great for long double-coated breeds (like Huskies, Malamutes, Newfies or Pyrenees, and Australian Shepherds). Designed to gently remove loose undercoat without damaging the outer guard hairs.

Dos:

• Use on dry, clean coats, especially during heavy shedding seasons.

• Ideal for thick-coated dogs with a soft, wooly underlayer beneath long guard hairs.

Don’ts:

• Don’t rush! Hurrying can lead to too much pressure and make the experience uncomfortable or even painful.

• Don’t use to remove mats or tangles—this rake is for deshedding, not detangling.

• Don’t use against the coat growth or dig into the coat—it’s not a shovel!

How to Use It:

• Place the rake gently at the top of a section of coat, then pull through smoothly in the direction of growth.

• Use soft, steady pressure—let the tool do the work.

• If you hit a snag or mat, switch to a slicker brush or dematting comb instead.

• Watch for signs of irritation (licking, flinching, or redness), and take breaks when needed.

Bladed Curry Brush (SleekEZ)

Great for short to medium double-coated dogs. Fantastic for removing loose fur and topcoat.

Dos:

• Use gently to avoid scratching; this tool has a sharp-edged blade that can cut if used roughly.

Don’ts:

• Don’t use on long double coats or curly coats—it can damage hair and skin.

• Avoid using on dogs with sensitive or irritated skin.

• Never use on wet dogs. The skin is more delicate when wet.

• Don’t brush against the direction of hair growth- it will cause irritation or cuts if you do.

How to Use It:

• Hold the brush at a 50% angle to the skin and slide it horizontally with the hair growth.

• Use gentle pressure—its essentially an exposed blade that helps remove shedding hair.

Flea Comb

Great for checking for fleas and removing tiny debris like flea dirt or eye boogies.

Dos:

• Check carefully for fleas, flea dirt (little dark specks), or debris after each pass.

• Use it to gently remove squishy eye boogies or dirt around sensitive areas.

Don’ts:

• Don’t use it as a regular grooming tool—it’s not designed for detangling or heavy brushing and can pull hair.

• Avoid using on coarse hair or very long-haired dogs; it won’t be effective and may cause discomfort.

How to Use It:

• Start at the neck or near the head and comb small sections slowly.

• Use the comb flat (almost flat against the coat) and slide it gently through your dog’s fur.

• After each pass, check the teeth of the comb for fleas or dirt—wipe off on a white paper towel to spot the critters clearly.

• Repeat over the whole coat, focusing on flea-prone areas like the tail base and belly.

Rubber Curry Brush

Great for smooth-coated dogs (think pitties, rotties, chihuahuas) and as a gentle deshedding and bonding tool.

Dos:

• Use it on smooth coats to remove loose hair and stimulate the skin.

• Perfect for bath time—helps work shampoo and conditioner deep into the coat.

• Use gentle strokes following the direction of hair growth for a relaxing massage.

• Great for bonding with your pup while keeping their coat shiny.

Don’ts:

• Don’t use on long-haired, curly, or double-coated dogs—it won’t be effective and can tug.

• Avoid using it to detangle mats or heavy shedding—it’s just not designed for that.

How to Use It:

• Wet or dry, use gentle long strokes along the coat in the direction the hair grows.

• Use gentle strokes following the direction of hair growth for a relaxing massage.

• Keep your pressure light to medium—enough to catch loose fur but gentle enough for sensitive skin.

Boar’s Hair Brush

Great for smooth-coated, terrier, or sporting dogs to add shine and distribute natural oils for healthier skin and fur.

Dos:

• Use it to bring out the natural shine and smoothness of your dog’s coat.

• Pair it with a conditioning spray for extra moisture and even distribution.

Don’ts:

• Don’t use it as your primary grooming brush—it doesn’t detangle or remove loose hair.

• Avoid using on matted or heavily shedding coats—it won’t address those issues.

How to Use It:

• Use regularly as a finishing brush after detangling and deshedding.

• Gently brush in the direction of hair growth with smooth, long strokes.

• Use light pressure to avoid irritating the skin (specifically on dogs with smooth coats and sensitive skin)

• Ideal for finishing touches to give that glossy, polished look.

Furminator Brush (Use with Caution!)

Great for short double-coated dogs like Labs, when used properly and sparingly.

Dos:

• Only use on clean, dry, and mat-free coats.

• Regularly inspect the blade for rust or damage—don’t use if damaged.

Don’ts:

• Avoid using on smooth coated dogs or medium to long double coats—it can cause more harm than good.

• Never use on wet dogs or dogs with fragile/sensitive skin—this can seriously damage the skin and coat.

• Don’t use on dogs with fragile or sensitive skin.

• Avoid brushing over bony areas (like shoulder blades or spine) to prevent discomfort or injury.

How to Use It:

• Use slow, gentle, long strokes in the direction of hair growth.

• Move around to avoid skin irritation, and avoid boney areas.

• Keep sessions sessions short and sweet, No more than 15 minutes at a time to brush the entire dog.

Note: Most groomers don’t recommend this tool for pet owners due to its high risk of skin and coat damage.

Detangling Spray

Although not technically a brush, it should be a regular part of your brushing routine. It's great for loosening small tangles, preventing breakage during brushing, and adding moisture to dry coats.

Dos:

• Choose a spray specifically formulated for dogs—never human products.

• Use it as a pre-brush prep to help reduce static and prevent split ends.

• Ideal for sensitive spots like behind the ears, under the arms, and the tail.

Don’ts:

• Don’t soak the coat—overdoing it can leave your dog greasy and may require an extra bath.

• Don't use it when using tools like the Bladed Curry Brush, Furminator, or Curved Undercoat Rake, which require a bone-dry coat.

• Avoid sprays with heavy perfumes or alcohol-based ingredients, which can dry or irritate the skin.

• Don’t use on open wounds or irritated skin without checking with your vet.

How to Use It:

• Shake well before use. Hold the spray bottle 6–8 inches away from your dog’s coat.

• Apply a light, even mist over the body, focusing on areas prone to tangles.

• Gently work the spray through with your fingers.

• Let it sit for 1–2 minutes before brushing to allow it to soften tangles and add flexibility to the hair.

All Brushed Up and Somewhere to Go

And there you have it—your crash course in canine coiffure! Whether your pup is a silky show dog, a double-coated shed machine, or a smooth little potato with attitude, you’re now equipped with the know-how to brush like a pro (and avoid the dreaded brush burn or accidental bald spot).

Remember, grooming isn’t just about looks—it’s about keeping your dog comfortable, healthy, and happy. A few minutes a day can make a huge difference in their coat condition and your bond together.

Still feeling tangled about which brush to use? Found a tool your dog actually likes? Have a brushing horror story or a miracle product we need to know about? Drop it in the comments—we’re all ears (and fur).

Until next time, may your brushes be gentle, your tangles be few, and your floors be just a little less furry.

With love, suds, and lots of tail wags,

The Dolled Up Dogs Team